FAQ for spark plug type heaters

Note:  IMPORTANT...many troubleshooting tips differ between the glowbar type heaters and the older technology spark plug heaters. If you are not sure as to the type heater that you are repairing, then simply remove the top cover to determine the type.

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Q. I have been trying to contact the manufacturer of Reddy & Master Heaters and have been unsuccessful. Why?

A. DESA International filed for bankruptcy protection in Dec 2008.

 

Q. Is ReddyParts.com a division of DESA International?

A. No. ReddyParts.com sells parts for Reddy, Master, and other heater brands independently through an internet shopping cart.

 

Q. What is the future of parts availability?

A.  Currently, parts for most models are still available. At this time, future availability of most Reddy Heater parts looks good.

 

Q. How do I know which filter kit to order?

A. Refer to our comparison sheet- compare by matching.

 

Q. My Spark Plug type heater will run but constantly trips the reset every 15-30 seconds. What's wrong?

A. Read this.

 

Q. The motor turns, blows raw fuel out the front, but there is no fire at the plug. What are the possible problems?

A. The first thing we would check is the spark plug itself. They tend to collect carbon  and eventually the build-up will bridge the gap and at this point the spark will be killed. Remove the carbon.

 

Q. My heater with SPARK PLUG technology runs for 30 seconds, then shuts down. What's wrong?

A. Always start by checking the pump pressure, first. Compare the air pump pressure to specs written on the heater. So much time can be gained in troubleshooting by using pump pressure as a starting point. Pressure loss can lead you to rotor failure, air leaks, broken parts,  leaky hoses, or, through good intentions, if someone has attempted to adjust the pressure and actually done more harm than good. As little as 1/2 psi reduction in pressure can give the symptoms described. Once the pressure is correct and the problem persists, move on to diagnosing the nozzle, fuel, and fuel delivery.

Request troubleshooting tips for Spark Plug type heaters by email.

 

Q. Why is air pump pressure so critical?

A. Fuel delivery is directly related to the air pump pressure. Just like the doctor checks your blood pressure (blood flow) you need to check the heater's air pressure (fuel flow). Air travels from the pump to the nozzle. At the nozzle adapter, fuel is sucked from the tank. Too little pressure means reduced fuel flow.

 

Q. I have rebuilt my rotor/air pump and it will not build pressure to factory specs. What am I doing wrong?

A. Using soapy water check for air leaks around the cork gasket of the lint filter. Also check the plastic end cover for an air leak. Soap will expose a hidden crack. Even a minor leak will cause insufficient pump pressure. If your heater has a 5/8" (HA3005) Rotor read this- you might have just found the problem.

 

Q. Are you stressing pump pressure to sell more gauges?

A. It's your choice. You can buy (or borrow) a gauge and and repair your own heater or you can take the heater to a repair shop and pay high labor rates. Around here the normal hourly rate is $80-95. An experienced heater technician will always begin troubleshooting any fuel problem first by shining a flashlight into the tank to see what you have been pouring into the tank along with the fuel, then he will reach for the pressure gauge. And, that's a fact.

 

Q. My heater will not reach the recommended pump pressure. What now?

A. Using soapy water, sparingly,  check for air leaks. An air leak any between the air pump and the nozzle will cause a reduction in pressure. Just a slight leak will affect proper operation. Common leaks...cracked plastic end cover....leak around cork...leaky air hose....cracked nozzle adapter.

DISCLAIMER: for safety reasons do not wet electrical components (electrical hazard) and be sure to remove the fan blade (knuckle hazard).

 

Q. I installed a new rotor and now the motor binds.

A. 2 things that can cause the binding. The rotor is slightly too thick or the rotor gap is insufficient. The fix.

 

Q. My heater shuts down, but if I remove the top cover it runs fine. Why?

A. Removing the top cover changes the aerodynamics within the combustion chamber. This change allows the fuel cone to widen, and more efficient atomization. 90% of the time this is a sign that the nozzle is either restricted or worn. DESA recommended annual replacement of the nozzle. This rule applies provided the air pump pressure is correct, there are no air leaks in the air or fuel hoses, and there are no restrictions in the fuel line.

 

Q. I think my thermostat is defective. How do I test it?

A. ReddyParts.com has a simple test posted on the website.

 

Q. Can I get the correct parts for my heater if I only know the BTU rating?

A. Maybe, but probably not. Example: A 50,000 btu Reddy Heater has at least 8 different models. Some require different parts. Ordering by BTU rating is guesswork. A LOT of time will be saved if you find the Model number FIRST!

 

Q. How do I find the Model of my heater?

A. On the side of the heater is a decal or impression that states model, tank size, pressure setting, voltage, etc. See our  Nomenclature page for more explanation.

 

Q. I have bought and replaced parts and my heater is showing the same symptoms. What now?

A. Did you check the pump pressure? The fuel delivery system and flame configuration is very sensitive to pump pressure. Attempting to tune-up a heater without accurately setting the pump pressure is only guessing.

 

Q. Can I return parts if the symptoms of my heater don't change after installation?

A. No........ Please read our return policy. *****Troubleshoot your heater before ordering parts.*****

 

Q. I purchased a new spark plug for my heater. How do I set the GAP?

A. View the spark plug installation page.

 

Q. My heater runs and heats fine, then for no apparent reason it simply shuts down. After 30 minutes or so I can re-start then after a while it will shut down again. What is happening?

A. While there are many things that can cause a shut down, but this sounds like a case for an overheating motor. Immediately after one of these episodes feel the motor. If it is hot to touch, it is going bad and the internal sensor is causing the shutdown. The motor is not serviceable.

 

Q. Do you have parts for propane heaters?

A. Yes. Propane heater parts catalog.